Designing and Creating Your Own Kroj

Four yards of 42-inch wide cotton cloth was purchased for the skirt. Enough material was cut from one end to make the waist band. The remainder of the fabric was made into the skirt. After the final length was determined seven lines of tucking were sewed into the fabric. A back seam was made with a small waist slit. The material was heavily gathered by pulling three lines of stitching and the waist band added.

Seven lines of 1/4 inch tucking was sewed into the skirt fabric. The spacing used created a slight overlap. After the skirt was completed, the bedding, which was attached to a narrow ribbon, was hand-sewned under the botton tuck.

As the embroidered georgette fabric used for the sleeves costs over $20 a yard, the bodice was made from white on white cotton calico.

This is a detail of the large puffed sleeve. It is partially filled out with stuffing in the photo. When worn, the sleeves will be tightly stuffed with tissue paper to fill them out.

The Cuffs of the sleeves are edged with first large-eyed eyelet--as charactoristic of kroj from the Haná area and then overlayed with lace onto which pearlized sequins are sewn. The sleeve is gathered with both elastic and pale blue satin ribbon. The ribbon ends are adorned with satin florettes.

This is a detailed photo of the stiff Georgette used for the sleeves.

The vest is fashioned from a deep blue velour on which a floral pattern has been embroidered. The front inside lining is of a floral design. The buttons feuture small mirrors in the center.

About four yards of beaded rope was hand stitched onto the edges of the velour vest.

Here, the color combination can be seen.

A cotton fabric made of strips of eyelet, lace, and plain cotton was used as the base for the apron. Wide satin trim with sequins was sewn on over the plan cotton bands. Wide eyelet was applied around the edges. Over the eyelet was sew the same lace with sequins that was used on the sleeves. Small satin florettes of blue and white were sewn on at set intervals on the eyelet bands.

Here the eyelet, sequined lace, and satin sequined trim can be seen.

This is what the fabric for the apron looked when purchased.

Floral Pattern, Gathered Skirt with Tucks and Beading

This is as far as I have gotten in making my kroj. It has taken me a little over a month to get this far--of course I did not work on it full time. I still have to make: another collar, a cummerbund, two petticoats and a cap. In addition, I have handwork to add to the sleeves and collar of the blouse.

There are not existing patterns for kroj (at least not that I have found). To create the kroj shown above, I used basic sewing design techniques and two patterns. One for the blouse and one for the vest--however, I made major alterations to each pattern. The patterns used are:

The bodice from Dorothy's outfit was combined with the sleeves from Glenda's gown to make the kroj blouse (I added several inches to the length of the sleeve pattern). For the vest, I used the McCalls' lined vest pattern but I shortened it to waist length.

Note of Caution: Some fabrics featured in this kroj cost over $20 a yard. Because of this and because one is combining and altering patterns, it is best to cut and make the vest and blouse from a cheap fabric, such as muslin, before cutting the real material. Also, this approach lets you make changes, such as adding or deleting darts, prior to working on the final garment.

Fabrics Used: (Note all fabrics, trims, and notions were purchased at either Hobby Lobby or Wal-Mart.

Skirt-- four yards of 42-42 width cotton with four yards of beaded ribbon. The skirt has a rear hook and eye closure.

Vest--Embroidered velour, cotton lining, beaded rope for trim, and mirrored buttons

Apron-- 42- 44 inch wide cotton cloth made of bands of plain cotton, eyelet, and lace. Satin trim with sequins, wide eyelet, and lace with sequins were added along with blue and white satin florettes. It has a rear hook and eye closure on the waist band.

Undergarments: Skirts are traditionally worn over slip, and then two full petticoats. The slip and cover petticoat with matching eyelet trim will be handmade. The "Can-Can" petticoat which will hold the skirt out has been purchased from a dance supply website as I do not have the patience to make a 65-yard petticoat.